We first went up to the Britanniahut. It still was raining on 2800m when we arrived.
on the way to the hut...
Next morning we started at 3.30h for the ascent of the Allalinhorn (4000m plus). It is an easy climb but still 1000m from the hut to the summit. We were pretty fast, other parties kept behind and we were the first to summit that day on 7.15h. The sunrise was exceptional (and the wind as well). It was pretty cold for a "hot" summer day. But we enjoyed to be out there. We were half way, we went down on the other side, crossed the rock tower "feechopf" and climbed the Alphubel (4000m plus) via the SE-ridge. The ridge was in good conditions (no ice, only firn). At 10.00h we were on top with beautiful views on the other high peaks in the area...
on the Hohlaubgrat, views on Täschhorn, Dom and Lenzspitze
Stefan close to the "climbing crux"
Alphubel, Täschhorn, Dom
Close to the summit of the Alphubel
the Mischabeljoch biwak attached to the North ridge of the Alphubel
We went down on the north ridge to arrive at 12.30 in the Mischabeljoch biwak... a very exposed biwak hut in the col between Alphubel and Täschhorn. The biwak is a really good starting point for the Täschhorn southridge and the traverse to the Dom.
We relaxed a bit, made some coffee with my jetboil and checked out the route we would climb next morning in the dark. There was still a lot of snow on the ridge and this ridge is faced south. We were in doubt about how the conditions would be on the north ridge of the Täschhorn where we would have to descent to reach the top of the Dom. The rock up there is really loose and slabby.... with snow on it things get pretty interesting....
Next morning we started at 4.30h and after one hour we got first light and after two hours we catched first sunlight. We were fast and other parties were far below.... Great.... there was a strong wind all day and at 8.00 we reached the top of the Täschhorn....
great sunrise, Stefan climbing on easy grounds, you don't see the wind on the picture :-)
a very long ridge...
looking to the south east with sunrise on the Matterhorn (left) and Weisshorn (right)
on the middel section
climbing close to the summit
on top!
the traverse to the Dom...
We checked out the start of the traverse, a lot of snow and the wind gusts were even getting stronger.... we decided that this was a bad combination, the traverse normally takes 5 hours, another 4 hours to reach the Dom hut and another 3 hours to go down to the valley.... in these conditions the traverse can take 8 or 9 hours.... so we went down the ridge we climbed up. A bit disappointed but in the end the better decision!
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